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# Official CinePI V2 Build Log.
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# UPDATE: 11/28/2023
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To better reflect the written contents of this page, I have decided to change this document from a Build "Guide" into a Build "Log", this is to address the number of missing aspects ( schematics for example ) that would better qualify this as a true Build "Guide." I advise future readers of this to consider this document as an in depth exploration of the build I made for myself and to use it as inspiration for their own build, but NOT to copy step-by-step and reproduce exactly as seen. I am currently focused on the software side of CinePI and do not have time to address the needs of this document to turn it into a Build "Guide".
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## Introduction:
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CinePI V2 was designed with a blend of custom parts and off the shelf / readily available components; some of which will require further modification for the purposes of integration into the final build. Those with a knack for DIY will enjoy the possibilities of this design; and it is highly encouraged that this design be used as the basis / starting point for your own camera design that meets your own unique needs.
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In the interest of time, many of the final design decisions were made based on the parts / tools I had available or could source quickly. For this reason, I will emphasize this disclaimer: **I do not recommend you replicate this camera design EXACTLY**. **Proceed at your own risk when modifying parts, I am not responsible for any damages to your components.
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Future designs will expore the use of more highly refined processes, such as consolodating many of the external components onto a single custom designed PCB in the familliar Raspberry Pi HAT form factor.
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## Tools Required:
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The assembly of the CinePI V2 will require the use of fairly common tools such as: screwdriver, side cutters, wire strippers, etc... Proficiency / access to a soldering iron will be required to perform hardware modifications to some of the off the shelf components ( soldering wires will be as complicated as it gets. ) Depending on the parts you decide to use in your build, you may be able to completely avoid soldering all together.
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#### 3D printing
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The body is designed to be 3D printed, you can choose any material of your liking; some recommendations would be PLA/ABS/ASA/PETG( I printed using Prusa Galaxy Black PLA on an Ender5 Plus. ) A 3D printer is not required, as an alternative you can research for local 3D printing services or choose out of the many online services available.
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## Parts List:
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Below is list of the parts and some links to where they can be found. Feel free to use alternatives where applicable: if you cannot find a PCF8523 RTC, feel free to use one of many other i2c based RTC's such as DS1307 for example.
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The Raspberry Pi 4B, HQ Camera are the only hard requirements.
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The Hyperpixel 4.0" Square is considered a "firm" requirement, if you chose another display as an alternative; you will most likely need to modify the camera body design to accomodate for it.
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| Item | Quantity | Link | Price |
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|----------------------------------------|----------|--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|---------|
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| Raspbery Pi 2/4/8GB | 1 | https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/raspberry-pi/RASPBERRY-PI-4-MODEL-B-8G/12159401 | $35-$75 |
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| Raspberry Pi HQ Camera | 1 | https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/raspberry-pi/SC0818/12339164 | $50.00 |
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| Pimoroni Hyperpixel Square 4.0" | 1 | https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/pimoroni-ltd/PIM470/10329005 | $76.50 |
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| Zero2GoOmini R2 | 1 | https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/pimoroni-ltd/zero2go-omini-r2/15851372 | $22.00 |
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| PCF8574 | 1 | https://amz.run/6bhj | $1.57 |
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| PCF8523 | 1 | https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/adafruit-industries-llc/3295/6238007 | $6.95 |
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| CR1220 | 1 | https://amz.run/6bhs | N/A |
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| Dupont Wires | | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002000655439.html | |
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| 40-pin FFC Cable | 1 | https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/adafruit-industries-llc/4933/14291405 | |
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| 40-pin GPIO FFC Extender Angled Male | 1 | https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/adafruit-industries-llc/4904/14205155 | |
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| 40-pin GPIO FFC Extender Angled Female | 1 | https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/adafruit-industries-llc/4905/14205159 | |
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| SparkFun QWIC Breakout | 2 | https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/sparkfun-electronics/DEV-14495/7942483 | |
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| QWIC Cables | | https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/sparkfun-electronics/PRT-17260/13629028 | |
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| Notcua NF-A4x10 5V 3-pin | 1 | https://amz.run/6bht | |
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| 12mm Blue LED Button | 1 | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33014419878.html | |
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| 12mm Red LED Button | 1 | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33014419878.html | |
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| 7-pin LEMO Female | 1 | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004949203075.html | |
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| Micro JST connector/cable | | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32704408939.html | | |
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## Pre-Assembly:
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Many of the parts used in the CinePI V2 build require further modifications / additional steps to prepare them for final assembly.
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#### Raspberry Pi HQ Camera
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1. Assemble
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#### Raspberry Pi 4B
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1. Secure 2x 20mm M2.5 Standoffs into the holes closest to the 40 GPIO pins using an M2.5 nut and 6mm M2.5 Standoff/Spacer.
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2. Secure 2x 15mm M2.5 Standoffs into the holes closest to the 40 GPIO pins using an M2.5 nut and 6mm M2.5 Standoff/Spacer.
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3. Insert MicroSD Card with 64-bit PiOS Lite flashed.
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#### Hyperpixel Square 4.0"
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1. Solder 4 wires to the external i2c port on the side of the display and connect to a QWIC breakout board for easy connection to other i2c peripherals / devices.
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2. Attach to the hyperpixel bracket using M2 Screws.
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#### Zero2GoOmini
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1. Solder 2-pin Lipo cable to the VOUT/GND connections on the side.
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2. Solder 2-pin MicroJST cable to the 5V/GND pins found on the GPIO connector on the top of the board.
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3. Solder 2-pin MicroJST cable to INPUT B +/- pads on the bottom of the board.
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4. Solder 2 out of the 4 pins from a QWIC cable to the SDA/SCL pins of the board.
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5. Reinforce / insulate connections with kapton tape.
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#### 40-pin Angled Female GPIO Extender
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1. Solder 2 ends of a 2-pin Lipo connector to the 5V / GND pads, use glue/resin to insulate/secure the connection.
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#### 40mm Fan
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1. Cut and replace the 4-pin PWM header and replace with smaller 2-pin MicroJST connector.
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#### Battery
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1. Battery is shown here for educational purposes only. Instructions for how to build will not be provided as it can be dangerous.
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#### Body ( body_003.stl )
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1. Place 10x M2.5 heatset inserts along both sides of interior wall that will support the display.
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2. Place 2x 1/4-20" heatset inserts along the bottom of the body.
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3. Secure the 40mm fan to body using 4x 16mm M3 Screws and Nuts.
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4. Secure the 7-pin LEMO connector to the body with the nut.
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#### Top Plate ( top_plate_001.stl )
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1. Place 6x M3 heatset inserts along the inner wall.
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2. Place 3x 1/4-20" heatset inserts along the top of the plate.
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3. Solder wires/connectors to power and record button.
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4. Route the 2 buttons through the holes in the top plate and secure with the nut.
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#### Battery Retention Plate ( battery_retention_plate_002.stl )
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1. Secure the PCF8523 to the plate using M2 Screws / Nuts.
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2. Secure the PCF8574 to the plate by pressure fitting into the gap on the side.
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## Assembly:
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1. Place the Raspberry Pi into the body, secure using 4x M2.5 Screws. Connect the CSI-2 15-pin FFC to the Raspberry Pi ( be careful not to make extreme bends in the FFC; for maximum space route the CSI-2 camera FFC beneath the Raspberry Pi. )
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2. Attach the 40-pin GPIO Extender to the Raspberry Pi, route the 40-pin FFC through the ribbon retention bracket. Secure to the standoffs using 2x M2.5 Screws.
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3. Connect the 2-pin Lipo connector between the Zero2GoOmini and the 40-pin FFC, the 2 pin MicroJST to the 40mm fan and the 2-pin MicroJST to the 7-pin LEMO port. Secure the Zero2GoOmini to the standoffs.
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4. Place the battery into the rescessed portion of the body, making sure to leave enough room for the BMS / wires. Secure the battery retention plate above the battery using 4x 8mm M3 Screws, placing a thin piece of foam insulation between the battery and the battery retention plate ( this will give extra mounting pressure and hold the battery in securely. )
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5. Connect the 40-pin FFC to the 40-pin Angled Male GPIO Extender. Connect the small QWIC connectors to the QWIC breakout board attached to the Hyperpixel ( this will become difficult in the later steps as space to work with your fingers becomes limited. )
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6. Connect the power button to the Zero2GoOmini using the USB-C connection and connect the record button using the 4 dupont cables to the PCF8574.
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7. Secure the display bracket to the body using 4x 8mm M2.5 Screws.
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8. Insert the top plate and secure using 6x 8mm M3 Screws.
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9. Secure the display bezel to the body using 6x 8mm M2.5 Screws.
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10. The camera is now assembled!
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## Support:
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Feel free to open an issue for any help/questions or join and get help through official CinePI discord: https://discord.gg/Wz9sQU3skC
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Desktop Arcade Machine
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==========================
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## Components
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| Qty | Component | Infos |
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| --- | --------- | ----- |
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| 1 | Raspberry Pi 3 Model B | |
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| 1 | Raspberry Pi 3 Power Supply - 5.1v 2.5A | I bought the official Raspberry Pi 3 power supply. Tested some of the third party power supply, and even using high quality cables, it wiould still result in under voltage. |
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| 1 | 8" 1024x768 IPS HE080IA-01D LCD Display | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/HDMI-VGA-AV-Control-Driver-Board-8-inch-HE080IA-01D-1024-768-IPS-high-definition-LCD/32325920866.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.SzvaUj |
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| 1 | Arcade Joystick + Buttons Kit | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DIY-arcade-joystick-handle-set-kits-5-pin-24mm-30mm-push-buttons-spare-parts-USB-cable/32770679289.html?spm=2114.13010308.0.0.nqSdOB |
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| 2 | 40mm 4ohm 3W speaker | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2pcs-Packs-4Ohm-3W-Full-range-Audio-Stereo-Speaker-40mm-Loudspeakers-Woofer-Speaker/32782192396.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.nlJkfT |
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| 1 | PAM8403 5V digital amplifier board | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/PAM8403-5V-Power-Audio-Amplifier-Board-2-Channel-3W-W-Volume-Control-Free-Shipping/32452488898.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.nlJkfT |
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| 1 | Short 20cm HDMI Male to Male cable | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Full-HD-Short-HDMI-Male-to-Male-Plug-Flat-Cable-Cord-Widely/32772823742.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.SzvaUj |
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| 1 | Short 30cm USB 2.0 male to female extension cable | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/30CM-USB-2-0-A-Male-to-USB2-0-A-Female-Extension-Molded-Panel-Mount-Extention/32573641881.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.nlJkfT |
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| 1 | Heat Sinks for Raspberry Pi 3 | https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-5pcs-lot-heat-sink-for-A4988-A4983-Stepper-Driver/1833231480.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.SzvaUj |
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| 6 | White LEDs | |
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| 6 | 100ohm resistors | |
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| 1 | 128GB SD Card | You can use a smaller card, but a bigger card allows you to dump in a lot more games. |
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| 1 | A4 Sized 0.5mm Thick Clear PVC Sheet | This is used for the marquee - cut to size: 210mm x 45mm |
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## Instructions
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> ### Excerpt
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> 3D print all the pieces. I used PLA for stiffness. All my 3D models were designed to be printed without the need for any support structures. You will need a 3D printer with a minimum print volume of 220mm x 220mm x 120mm in order to print these files.
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---
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1. Step 1
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3D print all the pieces. I used PLA for stiffness. All my 3D models were designed to be printed without the need for any support structures. You will need a 3D printer with a minimum print volume of 220mm x 220mm x 120mm in order to print these files.
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I should note that I actually designed and printed these parts \*before\* receiving the actual parts like the LCD screen, controller, speaker, amplifier etc. 3D printing takes quite a lot of time and I didn't want to wait till everything I ordered has arrived in the mail before I started printing. So, some of the parts were designed with some flexibility in terms of how it would be laid out. Also, this was a learning process for me as I am still relatively new to 3D printing, so some parts have gone through many changes as I experimented with the design. I believe all the files I uploaded should be correct, but in case there are any mistakes, do let me know.
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**Please understand that I am sharing these files AS IS. You do need to have a decent knowledge of 3D printing, Raspberry Pi, soldering, etc. in order to put it all together.** Any information that I did not include here, you will be able to Google it.
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Here are reference photos to give you a better idea of how all the pieces fit together.
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### Exploded views.
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### Completely assembled views.
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Most of the main pieces are held together using nuts and bolts, or screws. You will need M3 bolts of various lengths (probably 10mm - 16mm) and some screws. I am afraid I lost the specs of the screw I used, but it's about 10mm long and 2.5mm diameter. These were use for the marquee pieces.
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I sprayed primer putty and sanded it down to a smooth finish before spraying matte black paint for the final finish. You want to make sure you sand the top edges of "Body - Front Left" and "Body - Front Right" so that they are nice and smooth, cause otherwise, when you rest your hands on them, the sharp edges will get irritating quite quickly.
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In order to make it look like a commercial quality product, I did a lot of research into the designs of the artwork for old arcade machines. I took inspiration from them to create my own artwork for my arcade machine and had it commercially printed on vinyl stickers.
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**Connecting Everything Together**
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- The controller's USB connector will plug into the Raspberry Pi's USB socket.
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- The power connecter for the display will plug into the Raspberry Pi's USB socket.
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- The HDMI out on the Raspberry Pi needs to be connected to the HDMI input on the display controller board.
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- The speaker needs to be soldered to the amplifier circuit, and the amplfier circuit's power input needs to the connected to the Raspberry Pi's GPIO pin 4 & 6 for the 5V power supply. You also need to solder an earphone jack connector to the amplifier circuit and plug that into the Raspberry Pi's audio socket.
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- Solder together the LEDs and wire it to a USB connector. Plug it into the Raspberry Pi's USB socket.
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So, everything is powered directly from the Raspberry Pi. The only cable going into the arcade machine is the Raspberry Pi's power supply cable.
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**Software Setup**
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You will need to get RetroPie setup and configured. For that, please check out RetroPie's website ([https://retropie.org.uk](https://retropie.org.uk)) and Google for anything you need. All the resources you need are out there!
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2. Step 2
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**Display Issue Fix**
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The first time you try to power up the full setup, make sure to power the display from a SEPARATE USB power supply FIRST, before turning on your RPi. The display needs to be active first, otherwise your RPi would not use HDMI for display. Also, connect a keyboard to your RPi.
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After powering up your Raspberry Pi, let it boot up all the way until Emulation Station/Attract Mode comes up (depending on your setup). **Exit** to terminal.
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Open the Raspberry Pi configuration file for editing with this command:
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**sudo nano /boot/config.txt**
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Use arrows to get to the end of the file and add these 3 lines:
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**#Always force HDMI output and enable HDMI sound**
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**hdmi\_force\_hotplug=1**
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**hdmi\_drive=2**
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Save the changes by **pressing CTRL + O** and **ENTER**
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Exit the editor by pressing **CTRL + X**
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Now you can turn everything off, reconnect your display's power supply to RPi's USB socket. Now when you turn it on, your RPi will default to HDMI output even though the screen is powering up later than your RPi.
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